WHAT IS NEW HAVEN
STYLE PIZZA?
New
Haven style pizza is one of the least famous styles
of pizza, but
is just as distinct from
regular "delivery pizza" as Chicago style, New York
style, Greek pizza, California style, among many
others.
It
is known as APIZZA, which is pronounced "ah-BEETS."
There
are three main things that set APIZZA apart from regular
pizza.
The first thing is
the crust.
Because of the way
it is made, it turns out crispy on the outside
and chewy on the inside.
- It is a thin crust.
Because of its crispiness, it holds up when
you pick the slice
up, rather than bending over and spilling toppings
back onto the plate.
- Also, because of the temperature
of the stone below and the air above the pizza
when it is in the oven, and because of the specific
amount
of time that it spends in the oven, the crust
ends up with a wonderful mix of tan areas and black
spots,
both around the edge on the top and on the
bottom.
- One final note about the crust:
APIZZA has crunchy bits on the bottom that add
to the overall crunchiness
of the crust. Some of the crunchiness is light
in color, and some of it is black. It all adds
to the
unique
character of the crust.
The second thing
is the ingredients.
Overall, APIZZA has fresh, simple ingredients.
- The ingredients are all natural,
and many are organic and
locally grown. The sauce is all tomatoes,
with no artificial ingredients, and no high-fructose
corn
syrup or other
sweeteners. The cheese is fresh and not
too salty. Toppings are fresh from the farm and organic,
or
made in-house; sweet Italian sausage, for
example, is made
from scratch right in the kitchen at Pete's.
- Also,
ingredients are applied sparingly on APIZZA.
It is not oversauced, not overcheesed, and not
piled
on
with mounds of toppings. The overall effect
is a lighter
tasting, healthier pizza. You enjoy the
whole portion, whether it's a slice by yourself or
a
whole pie with friends or family, but youíve eaten
a lighter, healthier meal. The other thing, in
conjunction
with the crispy
crust, is that a lightly dressed slice of
pizza does not collapse in your hands and start
losing
its toppings
onto the plate.
The third thing is the presentation.
Pizza
has become a gourmet food. These days, premium-priced
"individual-sized" pizzas
are de rigeur. Exotic toppings and combinations
never heard of before Y2K fill the menu. And it
can seem
that the decor in many new pizza restaurants has
become more important than the food. Not in New
Haven, though.
- APIZZA is large. It can be sold
by the slice if you don't want a whole
pizza; you don't have
to pay $12+ for the "personal" size.
Our pies are 18" in
diameter.
- APIZZA is round, but not really.
Not every pie comes
out perfectly uniform (although pies made
to be sold by the slice have to be fairly uniform
in
shape so
every slice is about the same size). The
most
famous New Haven pizzerias send out pizzas
in the weirdest
shapes sometimes. And when sold by the
whole pie, the slices are usually cut in quite
haphazard
shapes.
- New Haven pizzerias may be famous
for their pizza, but they're not famous
for their decor.
The dining rooms are usually completely unpretentious.
The
service is friendly if not a little gruff
when the line snakes
out the door and down the street. In
many of the pizzerias, the rich history of the
business
is
highlighted with
vintage photographs of the founders,
yellowed newspaper articles about the business,
and signed head shots
from a VERY long list of celebrities,
political legends and other entertainers.
What New Haven
pizza is NOT
While it is not a very well-known style of pizza,
there are may people who know the style, and
with that, there
are a few misconceptions about New Haven style
pizza. Among them:
COAL.
It is not "New Haven style" just
because it is coal fired. And New Haven style
does not by any means HAVE to be coal fired.
The most
famous New Haven pizzerias, including Frank
Pepe's and
Sally's, use coal fired ovens for their
heat source. This makes for a really
amazing pizza. But those two legendary stores
were grandfathered in: coal is no longer
a legal
heat source under
most city building codes, including New Haven
and Washington DC. But as noted
above in the section about crust, the most
important thing about getting New Haven pizza
right is
preparing the dough a particular way, and
applying the heat
source to the top and the bottom of the pie
in the right way.
Whether it's coal, wood, or gas that provides
the heat, the source is not the most important
factor. You
can get
plenty of soggy pizzas that were cooked in
a wood-fired brick oven.
New York.
Ah, New York.
Frank Sinatra
used to send a driver up to New Haven to
get a pizza from Sally's whenever he was performing
in New York City. New Haven style pizza
is
not New
York style
pizza, and it is not a derivative of New
York style pizza. |